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Paris: Le Marais

Le Marais quarter's rooftops. © Cedric Arnold

No street seems to be the same in Le Marais. Narrow, bending streets with slightly leaning buildings give way to grand 17th century Royal mansions, quiet squares, not so quiet bars, trendy boutiques... Paris' Right Bank quarter, which incorporates both the 3rd and 4th arrondissements has a quirky charm about it. Le Marais (which means "The marsh") was turned form marshland to royal land when in the 1300's King Charles V decided to move his court there. By the 1700s it had become Paris' most fashionable area. King Henri IV, arguably France's first urban planner significantly developed the area building mansions and squares all over Le Marais.

When the royal court moved to Versailles, the rich started to leave the Marais for more fashionable areas and the quarter went into slow decline. Le Marais was one of the areas planned for destruction to make way for Baron Haussmann's grand boulevards in the late 1800s. It was spared but was already in a sorry state.
In the late 19th century, the area surrounding the Rue des Rosiers became home to many Jews from Eastern Europe, bringing the clothing industry to the area. Today, the area is still a major centre for the Jewish community, with many Jewish restaurants, shops, bakeries.

In 1962, a renovation plan was put into place. This was soon followed by an invasion of smart boutiques, restaurants and art galleries; new establishment quickly embraced the area making Le Marais one of the highest rent areas in Paris.

 

L: The owner serves an after lunch treat of Calvados (apple brandy) to his regulars, at the wonderful little café/restaurant Au temps des Cerises, close to Rue St Paul, on the corner of Bastille and Le Marais. © Cedric Arnold

R: In the Marais quarter's narrow, bending streets, old bicycles provide practical means of transport with a touch of style. © Cedric Arnold

L: Since there are virtually no new structures in the area, everything in the Marais is a converted piece of history, like l'Hotel de Sens, originally built in the early 1500's as a home for the archbishop of Paris, it now houses the beautiful "bibliotheque Forney", a library specialized in arts and applied sciences. © Cedric Arnold

R: A father talks to his young daughter after picking her up form school. © Cedric Arnold

A jazz performance at "7 Lézards" jazz club in Rue des Rosiers. The club has a cozy atmosphere, a great place to wind down after a day in Le Marais. The venue is also a restaurant and tea room. © Cedric Arnold

R: Charming café/restaurants abound in the Marais, like in rue Payenne, a quiet street just behind place des Vosges. © Cedric Arnold

L: The 3 floor European Museum of Photography in Rue de Fourcy holds regular exhibitions by some of the biggest names in photography. © Cedric Arnold

R: Reflections in the windows of The Picasso Museum in Rue de Thorigny. © Cedric Arnold

The Marais is a somewhat quirky place and not just because of the shape of it's old streets, it's places like the bar called "Les Fous d'enface" (the lunatics across the street) or the street called "La rue des Mauvais Garcons" (Street of the Bad Boys), named after the gangsters that lived there in the 16th century that locals say are an invitation to eccentricity (see bicycles below left). © Cedric Arnold

R: A model runs down a street in the Marais during a fashion shoot. The distinctive architecture of the area has been used as backdrop for countless fashion shoots, and movies. © Cedric Arnold

While the area abounds with fashion boutiques and all that is trendy, some of the oldest trades in Paris are still present in Le Marais. One of the few violin makers in Paris is in Rue Charles V. © Cedric Arnold

L: 65 year-old Anslemo looks straight out of a 1940ies movie. He roams Le Marais' streets shouting: "Vitrier". "Glazier, glazier, broken glass anyone?" Very probably the last of his kind, still working the way he used to as a young boy. © Cedric Arnold

R: One of the last lace artists still creating the designs by hand. This charming lady, works in a shop called Francine Dentelles in Le Village St Paul on the corner of Rue St Paul. The "Village" is a whole block of wonderful courtyards full of Antique dealers, artists and artisans' studios. © Cedric Arnold

L: Early on an autumn morning along the banks of the Seine at "quai des Celestins", "the bouquinistes" (book sellers) boxes are still closed. © Cedric Arnold

L: Enjoying early spring sunshine at la Place des Vosges. Lined with 17th century mansions and originaly known as Place Royale, the square was built by Henry IV in the early 1600's: this is Paris' oldest square. © Cedric Arnold

R: A young woman walks past Place des Vosges on a Saturday afternoon shopping spree... © Cedric Arnold

A young Parisian couple on a Sunday afternoon walk under the arches at Place des Vosges © Cedric Arnold

After a few "cafes" © Cedric Arnold 

 

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